Retail Jeweller - June 2010
Early Starters
Retailers are reporting that younger customers are forsaking high street costume brands for quality jewellery. James Knowles investigates.
There was a time when jewellery shops were a distinctly adult preserve, while teenagers and younger children were content with high street costume equivalents. But young people are rapidly becoming as fashion-savvy as mum and dad, spurred on by celebrity kids and the casts of US teen TV dramas Gossip Girl and Twilight, who show you don't have to be grown-up to be big on style.
And more and more jewellery retailers are taking up the challenge and stocking lines solely aimed at the younger market. As the high street picks itself up from recession, they are looking to the one section of the market that has an entirely disposable income to help lift profits. Quality, not costume.
Jewellery brand Molly Brown was set up in 2006 with the express aim of plugging the gap in the quality jewellery market for teenagers and younger girls. Since then, founder and creative director Erica Illingworth has seen her business go from strength to strength. "There was a lack of quality girls' jewellery available and, by identifying and filling this gap in the market, Molly Brown has built a successful business," she says. Jewellery brand Gecko has also joined the trend, with its D for Diamonds range. "We started D for Diamonds when we saw a gap in the children's market," says Gecko head of design Vicky Leyshon. The range has been selling like hot cakes at Wilmslow-based jewellery Alfred Peters. "There is a lot of demand for the D for Diamonds range. We've sold about half a dozen pieces in the past week alone," says store manager Sue Knowles. "Over the past six months I've noticed younger people coming into our store." Jeweller Kit Heath, too, is adding to its kids' charm bracelet line with Summer Candystripes and Polka Dots introductions this summer. "We designed our kids range because demand for nice gifts for children is on the up," says creative director Yasmin Moss. Peter Jackson The Jeweller, a four-strong jewellery chain in the north reports parents and teens lapping up offerings from Amore & Baci and Gecko. Owner Peter Jackson agrees that this is part of a wider trend. He says: "We have definitely seen a shift of focus, with younger people swapping costume for quality jewellery. My seven year old daughter has things from Claire's, but she also owns items from Links of London and Amore & Baci." With the teen and children's market growing, jewellers are increasingly stocking ranges for the whole family - mum, dad, teenagers and the little ones. Getting in products for this audience is the first step, and retailers need to know what the customer is looking for and how to sell them. Retailers need to rethink displays, branding and selling approach for this market. "We work around branding, as this is what younger clients respond to," says Knowles. Jackson says his store has taken the needs of younger customers into consideration. "Our children's displays tend to be on lower levels, so they can see into them. We treat our younger customers with the same respect as our older clients. We don't ignore the parents, but we focus on talking to the child," he says. When a teenager steps into a store, it can often be to make their first jewellery purchase, and treating them well could ensure their business for life. Sue Hurst, store manager of Preston's of Bolton, which stocks Links of London and fashion brands such as Armani, agrees. "Teens are often buying for the first time and may not know what they want," she says. "It's important to find out what their style is and show them what the options are. Stocking branded jewellery is key as more teens than ever before are into brands."
Molly Brown is covering all bases, with ranges for both teens and younger children. “We have people buying gifts from the Jelly bean Collection and Pearly Girly Collection," says Illingworth. "Customers want quality and will pay for it, because they know our jewellery won't fall apart or break." Cute animal, sea creature and other similarly young designs in sterling silver with coloured enamels are the order of the day in jewellery for children aged seven to 12. Kit Heath's Kid collection is aimed at children from birth to the age of 12. "For this audience, we use sterling silver, incorporating colour, and look at universal children's themes such as animals, butterflies and the alphabet," says Moss. However, competition from high street stores selling cheaper costume alternatives for the disposable income of teens and youngsters is stiff and ranges need to be affordable. "For special birthdays, such as the 16th and 18th, parents and grandparents are willing to push the boat out and spend in excess of £100 on a gift," Illingworth says. Gecko's D for Diamonds range is similarly priced, ranging from £29.95 to £100. "I feel it is a different market to the licensed costume children's ranges available. These items are also more durable and precious," says Leyshon. Younger customers connect with branding, and packaging is the key when targeting this audience, Molly brown's range comes in eye-catching, girly pink bags with ribbons. "Sassy teenagers want to own our jewellery based on the brand reputation", says Illingworth. "Our brand packaging is recognised on the high street and teenage girls love the thrill of swinging their brand bags."
Quirky, fun and original.
"A big trend following in both the adult and children's market is for the Pandora-style charm beads and jewellery that can be personalised and has a friendship bracelet feel," says Leyshon. Hot Diamonds is launching its Retro mania charms collection this June, cashing in on the trend for quirky, fun and original items. The charms include '80s-themed space invaders, cherry lips and space hoppers. "Collectables will continue to be big, but with more unusual ways of creating your jewellery. Customising a look is where things are headed," says Julie Leary, creative director at Hot Diamonds. Just J's collection of bracelets, distributed by DMJ Jewellery, cashes in on teens searching for the same thing as their friends. "I think we have only just started with charms for the children's market and this will be a growth area," says Leyshon. The growing number of retailers catering for fashion-hungry teens and parents seeking something extra special for their little ones shows that the teen and younger jewellery market is bringing customers into store. Illingworth predicts that teens will increasingly add fine jewellery to their collections. "Of course teenagers love costume jewellery. But they are also willing to pay more for a branded product. And, if they can't afford it themselves, they will save up or step up the pester power with parents," she says. What is clear is that jewellers looking to increase takings and bring a youthful bounce into their business should be stocking for younger age groups.
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